Groaning board

My students think American cuisine is hamburgers, coast to coast and north to south, 'not like my country,'they say, and that Thanksgiving is just, just turkey.

America, you're a country rich not only in foods of all kinds but traditions of cooking from all over the world as well as culinary adventurers trying new things, making new combinations. In the lead up to Thanksgiving, that singular American feast, the paper (The NY Times, Food section) published holiday recipes from all fifty states as well as DC and Puerto Rico.

Alabama Oyster Dressing, Alaska Russian Salmon Pie, Arizona Cranberry Sauce with Chiles, Arkansas Heritage Turkey (yes, but one of the older breeds of bird), California Sourdough Stuffing, Colorado Pecan Pie Bites (dipped into leftover turkey gravy)...all these based on tradition and local comestibles with just that twist which makes it contemporary.

After Connecticut's Quince and Delaware's DuPont Turkey, there's Garam Masala Pumpkin Pie from D.C., a fusion food created for the visit of the Indian Prime Minister. There's Florida's Mojo Turkey with a Cuban sour orange marinade (a second style), Georgia's Pecan Pie from front yard nuts, Hawaii's Mochi Rice Stuffing with Chinese sausages--am I making my point?

Consider Idaho's Hasselback Potatos, Illinois' Pumpkin Soup, Indiana's Persimmon Pudding (I've got to try some of that) and Kansas' Candied Sweet Potatoes (oh, scrumptious). The Kentucky entry was a Pocket Dressing, a stuffed pastry for hunters to eat out in the field. Then there's Louisiana's Shrimp Mirlitons, a kind of squash stuffed with.chopped shrimp. From Maine, comes Lobster Mac and Cheese, the very thought of which makes me swoon. Maryland Sauerkraut with Apples because 'turkey without sauerkraut is unthinkable.' Well, I'm thinking now.

Imagine all the bustling kitchens across the country where these treats are being put together: the slicing, the whipping, the basting and anxious timing, the chattering and laughing, the growing sense of serious abundance.

Massachusetts is my home but I've never had Clam and Chourico Dressing combining two local specialties: bivalves and Portuguese cooking. there's German Potato Salad from Michigan based on Old World recipes, Minnesota Grape (be careful not to burn the brown sugar) and Collard Greens with Ham Hock from Mississippi (nothing more down home). This on Thanksgiving tables across the country!

Missouri offers its St. Louis Gooey Butter Cake, and Montana Marinated Venison Steaks (else what is hunting season for?), whereas from Nebraska Standing Rib Roast (for those for whom it isn't a meal without beef). There's Nevada Turkey French Dip Sandwich (for a post-prandial snack). New Hampshire's Sage Stuffing Turkey is classic Yankee, while New Jersey Crepe-style Manicotti, reflects that state's Italian heritage, and New Mexico offers a Red Chile Turkey (which surely would have made Yankee noses turn scarlet.) Double Apple Pie from New York and Sweet Potato Cornbread from North Carolina. The board is groaning. Who is going to eat all this?

The Scandinavian influence shows in North Dakota's Potato Lefse. What's behind Ohio's English Pea and Onion Salad, or Oklahoma's Green Bean Casserole, or Oregon's Cranberry Sauce with Pinot Noir or Pennsylvania's Glazed Bacon?  Puerto Rico comes up with Mofongo Stuffing with plaintain and pork rinds, and Rhode Island proffers Indian Pudding, baked cornmeal and molasses, as traditional as it gets.

Think of the awe everyone feels looking at the laden table, the colors, the aromas. The summons to 'Dig in' is clarion. The noise of "Pass me, please"s along with the clatter of plates and the high spirits of reunion and hospitality.

The Salty Pluff Mud Pie of South Carolina has the same texture and dark color as tidewater ooze, but  that's the only similarity. Pear Kuchen from South Dakota, and Roasted Brussels Sprouts from Tennessee: I know the order is wrong but the eating sounds great whichever end of the meal you start from.

Texas offers Turkey Tamales and Utah, a Caramel Budino (a kind of pudding). Hurray for good old Vermont and it wonderful Cheddar Cheese Mashed Potatoes (almost a meal by itself).  I imagine a trestle table extending across the country with all these steaming dishes waiting for grace to be said.

Virginia Corn Bread and from Oregon's forests Shiittake Mushrooms with Bok Choy. West Virginia presents PawPaw Pudding (from local trees) and Wisconsin's Wild Rice (here with mushrooms) is legendary. Wyoming's Three Sisters Stew features the classic triumvirate of squash, corn and beans, the foundational food of the continent.

Replete, there's the talk, the jokes, the old stories, the questions, the appreciations of the meal and kudos for the cooks. The more-than-enoughness of the moment astounds us. The thanksgiving is very real.

All this is just the tip of the culinary iceberg; other occasions, other dishes. My country, you are so rich in all things that contribute to good living, not just food, but fellowship around the abundance. Too many don't know these pleasures; too many can't partake. What are we going to do about that?